Paradise on Earth found in Mozambique

 

Oh to be the friends of people who have ‘island paradise getaways’!    

 The Wilson family found themselves on a rather hair-raising road trip from Johannesburg to Vilanculos in Mozambique to spend some time with friends who have a share in the most idyllic place in the world – The Sanctuary.  This rather special part of the world is a 30 minute boat trip from Vilanculos - not exactly an island but a jutting out finger from the mainland and situated within the Bazaruto Archipelago.  You can only get there by boat from Vilanculos. 

The Mozambique border patrol was by far the most fascinating experience I have personally had in Africa – we all stared in wide eyed wonder at the screaming, jostling and negotiating going on around us, topped by the border police chasing – at top speed – the very kindly gentleman who was helping us with our insurance papers.  What can we say – he was wanted by the police!  Wow…life in Africa is never dull. 

The rest of the long road trip was just as exciting – watching out for cows, goats, the odd croc…humans!  You name it, everything and everyone crosses the main roads in Mozambique at any point they see fit.  You have got to have your wits about you when travelling in this part of the world.  It has to be said though, that a trip to Mozambique is not complete without stopping off in Maputo to enjoy some extra hot spicy prawns and  Portuguese peri-peri chicken. 

 I wasn’t sure what to expect from Vilanculos but it was more bustling and chaotic than I imagined it would be– we couldn’t even leave the car at the shops as there were at least 20 people crowding us trying to sell something.  I was glad to get to the meeting point on the beach to get the boat across to The Sanctuary.  I wasn’t expecting such a small boat but nevertheless, I was up for adventure even though my back and stomach weren’t feeling quite up to the crossing – wow, felt like an old lady when I got off.  Note to self: must find my sea legs!!   

All woes were completely forgotten when I arrived!  Looking up at Curlew Lodge nestled amongst the tropical foliage overlooking the turquoise sea,  I felt I had stepped into a Robinson Crusoe book.  It was pure heaven.    I remembered when I was at school and had to write a piece on “My Utopia”.  Mine went along the lines of “My Utopia - a tropical island paradise all to ourselves, not another soul in sight -  with palms waving in the wind, endless turquoise seas, long stretches of white sand, striking sunsets, dolphins frolicking in the waves… and tree trunks made of chocolate” (ok, apart from the tree trunks of chocolate, there was no doubt that  had found my Utopia here complete with dolphins frolicking in the waves).  

We spent our days boating around the various islands, enjoying long lazy days on deserted beaches, swimming, snorkelling, taking long walks and exploring the various islands.  In the evenings, our very smiley chef would see what 'the catch of the day' was and we would perhaps enjoy fresh fish over the fire after sundowners on the deck watching the magnificent sunsets.  It is hard to explain a tropical paradise on paper so I hope you will enjoy the pics I have included that tell their own story of our experience of the   THE BAZARUTO ARCHIPELAGO.

  

Curlew Lodge

Island Living

Cricket on our own deserted beach on Banque Island

Every now and again the local fishermen would join us on one of the islands - always fresh fish on offer

A perfect place for a sundowner!

Zim is Back

I recently attended a very inspirational presentation on Zimbabwe at the Wilderness Safaris office in Johannesburg.  Getting there on time during a wild Highveld thunderstorm was somewhat interesting.  Living here, we all love the smell of an African storm and never complain about the much needed rain, but trying to avoid the many potholes and staying as calm as possible with most of the traffic lights out of order ….eesh!  By the time I got to the presentation, my mind was ready to be whisked off to the stunning plains of Zimbabwe and that it was.

The presentation “Original Zimbabwe” was given by a number of key players in the hospitality and tourism industry in Zim.  They came with a strong message - ZIM IS BACK - and they wanted the world to know. As each presenter spoke, I was struck by their strong sense of pride, loyalty and passion.  They have each invested so much of their own money and time into communities, game reserves and the like - pulling Zim back up into the African tourism spotlight where it belongs.   For me, this was very exciting being reassured by those in-the-know and, afterwards, I couldn’t wait to get out there and sell Zim in every itinerary I sent out.  All my own memories of this country came flooding back right there and then watching these beautiful scenes come up on the screen (with Chardonnay and canapés in hand, it has to be said -Wilderness Safaris always do hospitality so well). 

I remember my first trip to Zimbabwe (with new boyfriend Dave) as a cash-strapped student many

My first view of the majestic Vic Falls

years ago.  The two of us had decided to do a three week self-drive camping trip through Botswana and Zim on a strict budget.  By the time we arrived at Victoria Falls, we were so tired of pretending to enjoy one tin of baked beans on dry bread rolls for dinner followed by brittle biltong that we decided to treat ourselves and headed to the Elephant Hills Casino just to see a bit of luxury.  We tried our best to blend in with the other guests but truthfully we couldn’t afford anything more than a coke between the two of us.  Having never gambled in my life, I tried my last R10.00 on the slot machine, much to Dave’s horror as that R10.00 was for next day’s food (it was nearly the end of our fledgling relationship).  Can you believe it…that machine gurgled to life and with bright disco lights flashing, it spat out a bag of coins.  Even Lady Luck was smiling upon our visit.  Convinced this was now a sign to thoroughly enjoy what the country had to offer and we could afford to do a bit more, we settled the exorbitant amount in dollars to go white water rafting down the mighty Zambezi River with Shearwater the following day.  

That's us...'bobbing' along the Zambezi

I can tell you that I remember nothing of the apparently amazing scenery down the Zambezi Valley that day as I had my eyes squeezed shut for most of it.  According to my fellow ‘braveheart’, Dave, I screamed most of the way like a real ‘girlie’ (so much for impressing the new man in my life) and frightened away the baboons, much to the amusement of our raft leader who looked like Tarzan. What I do remember is being tipped out of the raft into the swirling green waters of the mighty Zambezi which threatened to swallow me up.  Luckily for me, Tarzan was having none of that and hauled me back in each time, quite calmly and effortlessly I have to say, as if this was his normal day picking up screaming tourists from the ravages of the river. This all said, I have to admit that I found white water rafting on the Zambezi the most exhilarating experience I have ever had and very professionally done.  I recommend it to all you intrepid travellers out there – those with a strong sense of adventure and a few nerves of steel. 

My next visit a few years later was much more sedate but no less exciting.  I was working in London at the time for an African travel company and this was an educational visit together with a group of English travel agents.  It was quite fascinating seeing Zimbabwe through their eyes – they loved every minute of it.  It was blisteringly hot during our visit though- so hot that we were constantly given salt tablets for rehydration efforts and our English guests were certainly “pink in face”.  Our visit took us briefly through Victoria Falls where I was shoved off the road because Mugabe’s motorcade was coming past.  However, there were no dry bread rolls in sight for me this time as we stayed at the grand old lady herself, the colonial Victoria Falls Hotel.  To this day, I believe she retains her class and charm and so I have booked myself a stay for later this year – a treat for my husband, Dave, who still associates Vic Falls with dry bread rolls from our camping trip those many years ago. 

With our English guests, we then headed to The Hide and Little Makalolo, camps in Hwange

Elephant enjoying the water in front of Makalolo

National Park, and I remember the huge herds of elephant walking through one of our tented camps during the night to get to a waterhole in front of the camp which was pumped daily full of water - it was the only water around!   Each herd was around 100 strong but waited patiently until the previous herd had moved off and then approached the waterhole, and so they came in one herd at a time.  It was quite an extraordinary event to witness (us humans could learn a thing or two).  I didn’t feel terribly brave in my tent though – luxurious as it was – as herd after herd of elephant moved silently past my tent all night.  Eventually, exhausted, I decided to sleep against a big wooden cupboard so that if an elephant did trample through my canvas tent by mistake, I would at least be safe against a strong structure.  When I told the game rangers this story the next day, they found it extremely amusing that I would imagine such a thing (in fact, one game ranger was laughing so much at my antics that he choked on his morning cornflakes and we had to rush off and get him some water) – they who understand these gentle giants so well!

The exclusive and remote Singita Pamushana Lodge

Our tour also took us down to Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve and to the new exclusive and remote Pamushana Lodge – today safely under the Singita banner.  Since 1994, a trust was set up to protect and manage this large area and create harmony between conservation initiatives and dynamic outreach community development.   Singita now manages the Pamushana lodge on behalf of the trust.  What a success story!   Each guest who visits cannot but be touched by these efforts and the magic that goes on here in an area virtually untouched by humankind. 

After the travel agents left to go back home to ‘safer’ English shores, I spent a few more days ‘on the Zim road’ on my own.   My visit to Lake Kariba certainly stands out!  I stayed at Matusudona Water Lodge – where accommodation consisted of individual floating chalets.  You needed to paddle in your haiwatha-like canoe to and from your floating chalet to the ‘mother ship’ for meals etc – if you didn’t feel so brave, they would come and fetch you.  I was the only guest that night, so when I

Your very own "floating chalet" at Matusadona

was ready to paddle from my chalet, I rang a bell so that they could watch out for me and off I would go in my canoe telling myself that I was from Africa, I could do this.  Scary but very exciting!  After a hippo decided to pop his friendly head out across the waters just to see what I was, I decided that a few glasses of the ‘strong stuff’ was definitely in order at dinner to be brave enough to paddle back.  Lake Kariba is also the area where we went on a bush walk and quite literally stumbled upon a pride of lion.  These are the moments I marvel at the local Zim people – our ranger appeared so calm and professional, knobkerrie at the ready, and so we walked slowly backwards without the pride even bothering with us.  I, however, thought my heart was going to pump right out of my body.

And so began my love affair with Zimbabwe – my own experiences have shown that it really is the most wild, exciting and exhilarating place to visit, and I am thrilled to hear that tourism is going as strong as ever in this incredibly beautiful land with the most hospitable people.   I would pack your bags and get there as soon as you possibly can.  Tarzan at Vic Falls is waiting to toss you into the Zambezi and I will certainly listen out for you down there in the valley when Dave and I are sipping our cocktails in the colonial splendour of the Vic Falls Hotel.   ‘Cheers’ to you Zim!

Our Journey into the Extraordinary Saga of the 1879 Anglo-Zulu War

Having attended David Rattray’s highly acclaimed 1879 Anglo Zulu War lectures at the Royal Geographical Society in London many years ago, a trip to Fugitives’ Drift Lodge in Kwa-Zulu Natal was always definitely on the cards for me. Very kindly, Nicky Rattray offered me a visit with my family recently and so, with great excitement, we headed off for a few days to absorb this fascinating part of our history. 

THE BEAUTIFUL FUGITIVES DRIFT RESERVE

We got into the spirit of things right from the five hour car trip from Johannesburg when my three boys behaved like over-zealous Zulu Impis (warriors) from the minute we started the journey. I therefore thoroughly appreciated the friendly welcome we received at the lodge as I unceremoniously turfed out my somewhat battle-worn young men to enjoy a welcome drink for my parched throat (parched from the exuberant orders I was barking at my warriors throughout the car journey).

From the welcome lick from Pip the dog to the down-to-earth staff, we all felt immediately at home. The lodge is set in a tranquil shady garden over-looking the Buffalo River Gorge and has a very relaxed, peaceful and unfussy air about it. I just loved it from the minute I got there!  There was not much time to get acquainted with the sumptuous accommodation because we headed straight out on our first tour - the Battle of Rorke’s Drift. 

THE 'BABY GIRAFFE' SEARCH PARTY

Children are especially treated like part of the family and very welcome.  My 6 year old son was completely unperturbed about not joining us and happily clicked into their “Battlefield Kids” programme. There was a baby giraffe born on their 5000 acre reserve just a few days earlier and he was invited along to see how it was doing as well as being asked to help in the kitchen later with baking some cookies. Bliss! The rest of us headed off in an “Out of Africa” style land-rover together with their other guests – everyone delightfully chatty and friendly. 

Whilst we listened to David Rattray’s voice on the cd providing essential background information to the wars, we ventured along dusty roads through African villages peppered with cattle and goats. It was hard to believe that there was once so much bloodshed in these peaceful hills. 

I love to take my children on tours like this as I can gauge exactly how good these tours actually are. If you can keep a restless pre-teen boy’s interest and avid concentration for a number of hours – apart from you deserving a Victoria Cross for valour along with Melvill and Coghill - there must clearly be something extremely fascinating in your story and your storytelling. Without doubt, storytelling is a gift. During my visit, I often felt that the way this extraordinary saga is told would be similar to the way stories would have been told in Zulu villages over many years – and having grown up in Zululand, I have experienced Zulu storytelling at its very best. The late David Rattray was a truly gifted and respected orator who received standing ovations throughout the world with his very passionate depiction of this part of our history. He certainly brought this incredible saga to life - and he would be justly proud that his beloved Fugitives’ Drift still keeps that flag flying high. 

THE BATTLE OF RORKE'S DRIFT IN FULL SWING

The Battle of Rorke’s Drift is an amazing story of unflinching courage. As you wander about the battle site – now a peaceful church and museum – you can almost feel the terror these British men must have felt that night as they heard the throbbing chant of the approaching Zulu force descending into this small “supplies” station. Quite extraordinary how, throughout the night, this small band of courageous British men frustrated the Zulus and eventually beat them off. It is no surprise that more Victoria Crosses were awarded for valour in this battle than in any other battle in history. We enjoyed the little titbits about the individual characters too – my favourite was about teetotaller Henry Hook (the Brits do love their tea, don’t they, even during battle). My boys particularly loved the story about the little dog, Pip, who alerted the men when a Zulu warrior was hiding behind the biscuit tin barricade by barking furiously. 

We felt emotionally drained by the time we got back to the lodge but instantly perked up with the smell of dinner and continued to enjoy more stories around the fire and in the dining-room stuffed with artefacts from these wars. We fell into bed dreaming of Zulus chanting and charging with their assegais held high. 

STANDING TO ATTENTION UNDER DAVID RATTRAY'S GAZE

 

 

 

THE DAY THAT THE ZULU WAS "MAN OF THE HOUSE"

The next morning, we headed off to the famous battlefield of Isandlwana. Here the British army suffered its worst defeat against a technologically inferior indigenous force. We were very lucky to have the tour led by Andrew Rattray – David’s son – who is, as are all their guides, as passionate about this history as his father was. If I closed my eyes I would have heard his father talking – they sound so alike. Whilst sitting under a vast Buffalo Thorn Tree with the view of the battlefield ahead, we listened enraptured to Andrew describe that day in meticulous detail – including some Zulu language in his rhetoric just to add to the atmosphere – we felt we were right there. My sons were spellbound. It is difficult to explain how you feel during this tour – there is a haunting stillness about the place under the enigmatic isolated Isandlwana Mountain even though the surrounding villagers go about their day. The eeriness of it having gone completely dark during the battle on the ‘Day of the Dead Moon’ just added to it feeling almost supernatural. What a thorough Zulu victory it was! They outsmarted the British with their “buffalo horns” battle attack format on every front and I can imagine the proud stories being told around the Zulu fires of this amazing day that the Zulu was “man of the house”. 

And yes, my boys did ‘force’ their mother up part of the Islandlwana Mountain – puffing terribly – but what an amazing sight from there and very well worth taking the time to sit and even close your eyes and absorb it all. Of course, the very British tradition of tea was extremely appreciated after our descent. We returned to the lodge to have my youngest explain in great detail the heroics of the ‘superheroes’ Melvill and Coghill and their attempt to save the Queen’s Colour. He had been taken on a tour of their burial sites situated on the reserve and then afterwards had “stone jumping” competitions across a waterhole. Happiness all round! 

A PERFECT PLACE FOR CHATTING AND STORYTELLING

We left the next day with heavy hearts – my youngest in tears as he would miss Pip the dog and the new baby giraffe. However, we left not only richer in our knowledge of this almighty clash between two great nations, but also grateful for the wonderful conversation we had enjoyed during our visit. It is a place that encourages and stimulates conversation – a perfect place to enjoy a beautifully told story, establish a deep understanding of both nations as well as the time to get to know the personal stories of other guests sitting around the fire with you. One makes friends on trips like these – good friends! Sadly, the art of conversation is so sorely missing in the frantic world of modern technology. 

As we drove off waving to the Fugitives’ Drift team, we were stopped by the chef with a bag laden with sandwiches, fruit and cool drinks for our journey home – such a thoughtful gesture that one could expect from close friends. Heading home, we started on David Rattray’s highly recommended cd collection “Day of the Dead Moon” and continued in silence for the duration of the 5 hour journey. We arrived in the city listening to the dramatic capture of Cetshwayo – the King of the Zulus. Whilst sitting at the traffic lights with tears streaming down my emotionally charged face, I turned to see the driver in the car next to me who smiled encouragingly and gave me the ‘thumbs up’. I realised he must have seen my ‘impi warriors’ at the back of the car and presumed the tears. If only he had known, the King had been captured and we were all beyond devastated! I don’t think anyone who has visited Fugitives’ Drift is quite the same again!