Our Journey into the Extraordinary Saga of the 1879 Anglo-Zulu War

Having attended David Rattray’s highly acclaimed 1879 Anglo Zulu War lectures at the Royal Geographical Society in London many years ago, a trip to Fugitives’ Drift Lodge in Kwa-Zulu Natal was always definitely on the cards for me. Very kindly, Nicky Rattray offered me a visit with my family recently and so, with great excitement, we headed off for a few days to absorb this fascinating part of our history. 

THE BEAUTIFUL FUGITIVES DRIFT RESERVE

We got into the spirit of things right from the five hour car trip from Johannesburg when my three boys behaved like over-zealous Zulu Impis (warriors) from the minute we started the journey. I therefore thoroughly appreciated the friendly welcome we received at the lodge as I unceremoniously turfed out my somewhat battle-worn young men to enjoy a welcome drink for my parched throat (parched from the exuberant orders I was barking at my warriors throughout the car journey).

From the welcome lick from Pip the dog to the down-to-earth staff, we all felt immediately at home. The lodge is set in a tranquil shady garden over-looking the Buffalo River Gorge and has a very relaxed, peaceful and unfussy air about it. I just loved it from the minute I got there!  There was not much time to get acquainted with the sumptuous accommodation because we headed straight out on our first tour - the Battle of Rorke’s Drift. 

THE 'BABY GIRAFFE' SEARCH PARTY

Children are especially treated like part of the family and very welcome.  My 6 year old son was completely unperturbed about not joining us and happily clicked into their “Battlefield Kids” programme. There was a baby giraffe born on their 5000 acre reserve just a few days earlier and he was invited along to see how it was doing as well as being asked to help in the kitchen later with baking some cookies. Bliss! The rest of us headed off in an “Out of Africa” style land-rover together with their other guests – everyone delightfully chatty and friendly. 

Whilst we listened to David Rattray’s voice on the cd providing essential background information to the wars, we ventured along dusty roads through African villages peppered with cattle and goats. It was hard to believe that there was once so much bloodshed in these peaceful hills. 

I love to take my children on tours like this as I can gauge exactly how good these tours actually are. If you can keep a restless pre-teen boy’s interest and avid concentration for a number of hours – apart from you deserving a Victoria Cross for valour along with Melvill and Coghill - there must clearly be something extremely fascinating in your story and your storytelling. Without doubt, storytelling is a gift. During my visit, I often felt that the way this extraordinary saga is told would be similar to the way stories would have been told in Zulu villages over many years – and having grown up in Zululand, I have experienced Zulu storytelling at its very best. The late David Rattray was a truly gifted and respected orator who received standing ovations throughout the world with his very passionate depiction of this part of our history. He certainly brought this incredible saga to life - and he would be justly proud that his beloved Fugitives’ Drift still keeps that flag flying high. 

THE BATTLE OF RORKE'S DRIFT IN FULL SWING

The Battle of Rorke’s Drift is an amazing story of unflinching courage. As you wander about the battle site – now a peaceful church and museum – you can almost feel the terror these British men must have felt that night as they heard the throbbing chant of the approaching Zulu force descending into this small “supplies” station. Quite extraordinary how, throughout the night, this small band of courageous British men frustrated the Zulus and eventually beat them off. It is no surprise that more Victoria Crosses were awarded for valour in this battle than in any other battle in history. We enjoyed the little titbits about the individual characters too – my favourite was about teetotaller Henry Hook (the Brits do love their tea, don’t they, even during battle). My boys particularly loved the story about the little dog, Pip, who alerted the men when a Zulu warrior was hiding behind the biscuit tin barricade by barking furiously. 

We felt emotionally drained by the time we got back to the lodge but instantly perked up with the smell of dinner and continued to enjoy more stories around the fire and in the dining-room stuffed with artefacts from these wars. We fell into bed dreaming of Zulus chanting and charging with their assegais held high. 

STANDING TO ATTENTION UNDER DAVID RATTRAY'S GAZE

 

 

 

THE DAY THAT THE ZULU WAS "MAN OF THE HOUSE"

The next morning, we headed off to the famous battlefield of Isandlwana. Here the British army suffered its worst defeat against a technologically inferior indigenous force. We were very lucky to have the tour led by Andrew Rattray – David’s son – who is, as are all their guides, as passionate about this history as his father was. If I closed my eyes I would have heard his father talking – they sound so alike. Whilst sitting under a vast Buffalo Thorn Tree with the view of the battlefield ahead, we listened enraptured to Andrew describe that day in meticulous detail – including some Zulu language in his rhetoric just to add to the atmosphere – we felt we were right there. My sons were spellbound. It is difficult to explain how you feel during this tour – there is a haunting stillness about the place under the enigmatic isolated Isandlwana Mountain even though the surrounding villagers go about their day. The eeriness of it having gone completely dark during the battle on the ‘Day of the Dead Moon’ just added to it feeling almost supernatural. What a thorough Zulu victory it was! They outsmarted the British with their “buffalo horns” battle attack format on every front and I can imagine the proud stories being told around the Zulu fires of this amazing day that the Zulu was “man of the house”. 

And yes, my boys did ‘force’ their mother up part of the Islandlwana Mountain – puffing terribly – but what an amazing sight from there and very well worth taking the time to sit and even close your eyes and absorb it all. Of course, the very British tradition of tea was extremely appreciated after our descent. We returned to the lodge to have my youngest explain in great detail the heroics of the ‘superheroes’ Melvill and Coghill and their attempt to save the Queen’s Colour. He had been taken on a tour of their burial sites situated on the reserve and then afterwards had “stone jumping” competitions across a waterhole. Happiness all round! 

A PERFECT PLACE FOR CHATTING AND STORYTELLING

We left the next day with heavy hearts – my youngest in tears as he would miss Pip the dog and the new baby giraffe. However, we left not only richer in our knowledge of this almighty clash between two great nations, but also grateful for the wonderful conversation we had enjoyed during our visit. It is a place that encourages and stimulates conversation – a perfect place to enjoy a beautifully told story, establish a deep understanding of both nations as well as the time to get to know the personal stories of other guests sitting around the fire with you. One makes friends on trips like these – good friends! Sadly, the art of conversation is so sorely missing in the frantic world of modern technology. 

As we drove off waving to the Fugitives’ Drift team, we were stopped by the chef with a bag laden with sandwiches, fruit and cool drinks for our journey home – such a thoughtful gesture that one could expect from close friends. Heading home, we started on David Rattray’s highly recommended cd collection “Day of the Dead Moon” and continued in silence for the duration of the 5 hour journey. We arrived in the city listening to the dramatic capture of Cetshwayo – the King of the Zulus. Whilst sitting at the traffic lights with tears streaming down my emotionally charged face, I turned to see the driver in the car next to me who smiled encouragingly and gave me the ‘thumbs up’. I realised he must have seen my ‘impi warriors’ at the back of the car and presumed the tears. If only he had known, the King had been captured and we were all beyond devastated! I don’t think anyone who has visited Fugitives’ Drift is quite the same again!