MY "OUT OF AFRICA" TRIP - PART 3

AND ONTO THE SERENGETI 

Great excitement as we head onto our final Northern Tanzania destination.  Our great guide, Hash, takes us through to Manyara Airport and waves us off on our Regional Air charter.  Although in great hands, I am not known for bravery in small planes, so there are a few wobbly nerves as we fly over the edge of the mountainous terrain of Manyara and into the skies above the vast endless plains of a remarkable grassland ecosystem – the Serengeti.  
It is beyond magnificent.  After the rains, it looks like a great green grass sea and the pools of rainwater shine like diamonds in the African sun as we fly over.   Here and there are small homesteads with their distinguishable cattle kraals and we see animals galloping across the plains.  I disembark and take a deep breath – this is MY ‘BUCKET LIST’ MOMENT – I can hardly believe I am here!!

We will be staying with Singita Grumeti for four days and staying at three of their incredible lodges. We are whisked off through the private Grumeti Game Reserve adjoining the Serengeti National Park and arrive at our first lodge - Faru Faru - for lunch.   

I realize immediately, that even with Singita’s impressive marketing material and stunning videos, the real thing is so much more breath taking and impressive than any marketing material can ever achieve.  Inspired by a botanist camp, Faru Faru is exquisitely designed by integrating an organic theme together with quirky and contemporary elements incorporating stone, canvas and glass.   The overall effect is exquisite. 

My suite has a large glass window overlooking a private plunge pool and the savannah beyond where I spot a few black and white Colobus Monkeys scrutinizing me from the safety of their treetop perch.  One can just lie on your sumptuous bed, press a remote and the wall-to-wall glass windows glide open and shut.  I start to feel like my nine-year old son in a “Toys R Us” store.  This is so exciting.  After I have sampled every delicious thing in the stocked fridge, had a cup of tea out of an exquisite tea cup, a G&T out of a crystal glass, explored every interesting decorative item and devoured each fascinating book set out for my interest (of course including opening and closing the windows a few times with my remote whilst lying on the bed) we are called for our afternoon game drive – I am SO SAD to leave my rather amazing accommodation.

When people think of the Serengeti, the first thing that comes to mind is the Great Annual Migration made up of thousands upon thousands of wildebeest, accompanied by zebra and a smattering of Thomson’s gazelle.  Rain is the engine that drives this spectacle and dictates where the herds will be at different times of the year.  However, rain is not reliable and therefore it is not easy to book a migration trip too early.  Our visit did not coincide with the migration passing through – apparently we were a few weeks early.  Even though the annual migration must be the most incredible sight to witness, I wasn’t slightly disappointed because our game viewing was beyond spectacular (and trust me – I have been on many game drives).  

There is always so much game in the Serengeti.  You always see large herds of every antelope, elephant, prides of lion (even climbing trees), cheetahs hunting – that just visiting the Serengeti is “spectacle” enough.  It is a place that touches your soul at any time of the year and it is not possible to be disappointed.   It is your perfect African Safari dream come true.    

Our next stay was my favourite camp of all because I am a bit of a Karen Blixen wannabe.  Sabora Tented Camp is nestled right in the middle of the Serengeti Plains and is a stunningly decorated 1920s style explorers’ camp with a treasure trove of lavish antiques and artifacts, heavy wood, rich Persian rugs and an abundance of crystal, silverware and glass.  Being out on the plains, you really do feel anchored in with the Serengeti wildlife.  

Cozied up in my lavish tent in the middle of the still night, two large magnificent male lions decided to walk right through the camp.  Just passing my rather thin canvas protection, they roared the ‘Lion King of all Roars’ just metres from me…there was absolutely no doubt that the earth shook with this spine-chilling sound.  I was certainly shaken to my bones quite literally- in fact I think I still trembled for days afterwards.  Those that have heard a wild lion roar at close range will know exactly what I mean.  The roar of a lion packs a power punch that completely unnerves you and is part of the thread that binds your soul forever to this wild and unpredictable continent.    Sabora Tented Camp is not for the faint hearted. 

Our last night was spent at Sasakwa Lodge – a stately Edwardian Manor House offering guests a sense of refined comfort, luxury and olde world grandeur.  Being on a high vantage point, it offers amazing
panoramic views of the endless plains.  The walls are crammed with beautiful old paintings, maps and other interesting bits and pieces that make you want to just wander around the Manor House for hours analysing each one, just taking it all in.  A game of chess is set out and whilst we were enjoying an after dinner drink, someone was tinkering on the piano and that sound in itself took me straight back to grand and elegant days gone by – just required me to bring out a silk dress laced with antique embroidery and elegant jewellery.  Karen Blixen eat your heart out!

Although completely taken by all the Singita lodges up in East Africa, the mobile Singita Explorer Camp that we had a quick look at, pulled at my heartstrings especially.  I dream that if I ever win the Lucky Lotto, this is where I would take a group of my closest friends – some time spent in tune with nature for the more adventurous.  These mobile camps, although luxurious in every way, offer a more olde world “camping” feel and are set up according to climate and movement of animals. 

What really stayed on my mind after this visit was that Singita, having won many awards and accolades for it’s eco-luxury lodges, low impact conservation and outstanding community work, is really about it’s people.  The people that work for Singita make Singita.  From the ever smiling and thoughtful Francis (our host and ranger) to the managers and their friendly staff at each lodge and camp, were outstanding.  I will always remember the surprise on our last night when we stopped for the usual sundowners.  

We turned the corner to a path of candle lights lit up, and at the end, chairs decked with Maasai blankets, snacks and our favourite drinks all beautifully set up - an amazing end to our Tanzanian adventure.  I still sing the song that the Maasai  guards sang with us as they walked us back to our rooms at night…. A bit like the thunderous roar of a lion, it just stays in your soul forever. 

Thank you Singita Grumeti  for a trip of a lifetime…. an experience I will, quite simply, never ever forget!

** PLEASE SEE MY VIDEO BLOG ON A TRIBUTE TO THE PEOPLE I MET AT SINGITA GRUMETI**